This "Clam Dip" is basically a chemical stew
Well-known food writer Michael Pollan counsels us not to buy any food product with more than five ingredients.
A couple of weeks ago, I saw this on sale at my local supermarket, and thought "It might be nice to try something different from my usual home-made onion dip." After all, the package advertised "The Perfect Dip For Chips!"
Can't argue with "perfect", so into my basket it went.
Sadly, it fell considerably short of perfection. Though labeled "Creamy Clam Dip", it had no visible clams and almost no clam flavor. And its texture was…not creamy, but a sort of watery, gelatinous blob that was nothing like the sour cream-based dips one usually sees.
I got curious about what was actually in the stuff. Here's the ingredient list, exactly as printed (in very small, slightly fuzzy type) on the plastic tub:
SOUR DRESSING (NONFAT MILK, PALM OIL, STABILIZER [MODIFIED FOOD STARCH, GELATIN, MONO AND DIGLYCERIDES, GUAR GUM, CARRAGEENAN, SODIUM PHOSPHATE], SOYBEAN OIL, FLAVORING [LACTIC ACID, WATER, CITRIC ACID, ACETIC ACID, NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL FLAVORS], MONO- AND DIGLYCERIDES AND BETA-CAROTENE, POTASSIUM SORBATE [PRESERVATIVE], NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL FLAVOR), MAYONNAISE (SOYBEAN OIL, WATER, EGG YOLKS, VINEGAR, SALT), CLAMS (SEA CLAMS, SEA CLAM JUICE, SALT, SODIUM TRIPOLYPHOSPHATE [TO RETAIN MOISTURE], CALCIUM DISODIUM EDTA [TO PRESERVE COLOR]), SUGAR, WATER, VINEGAR, SALT, SEASONING (MALTODEXTRIN, XANTHAN GUM, HYDROLYZED [CORN, SOY, AND WHEAT GLUTEN PROTEIN], POTASSIUM SORBATE [PRESERVATIVE], CITRIC ACID, CORN SYRUP SOLIDS, SPICES, SUGAR, VINEGAR, MOLASSES, COD LIVER OIL, MODIFIED CORN STARCH, CELLULOSE GUM, SOYBEAN OIL [AS A PROCESSING AID], CARAMEL COLOR, SALT, NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL FLAVORS, GARLIC POWDER, YEAST EXTRACT, TAMARIND EXTRACT, LACTIC ACID), DEHYDRATED ONION, MODIFIED CORN STARCH, SODIUM BENZOATE (PRESERVATIVE).
If you make more than a passing attempt to wade through this, you will soon be waylaid by the various parentheses and brackets that group ingredients and explain their functions. It's a confusing jumble. But relax, I've done the hard work of parsing the list and organizing the ingredients. Here they are, in hierarchical outline form:
sour dressing
nonfat milk
palm oil
stabilizer
modified food starch
gelatin
mono and diglycerides
guar gum
carrageenan
sodium phosphate
soybean oil
flavoring
lactic acid
water
citric acid
acetic acid
natural and artificial flavors
mono- and diglycerides
beta carotene
potassium sorbate
natural and artificial flavor
mayonnaise
soybean oil
water
egg yolks
vinegar
salt
clams
sea clams
sea clam juice
salt
sodium tripolyphosphate
calcium disodium EDTA
sugar
water
vinegar
salt
seasoning
maltodextrin
xanthan gum
hydrolyzed protein
corn
soy
wheat
potassium sorbate
citric acid
corn syrup solids
spices
sugar
vinegar
molasses
cod liver oil
modified corn starch
cellulose gum
soybean oil
caramel color
salt
natural and artificial flavors
garlic powder
yeast extract
tamarind extract
lactic acid
dehydrated onion
modified corn starch
sodium benzoate
I've tried hard to keep it all straight, but it's possible I've made errors.
Now let's talk about unique ingredients, because several ingredients (salt, e.g.) are listed multiple times. Here's what I've come up with (in order of appearance, not in order of decreasing amounts, like normal ingredient lists):
- nonfat milk
- palm oil
- modified food starch (thickener/stabilizer)
- gelatin (thickener/stabilizer)
- mono- and diglycerides (fats)
- guar gum (thickener/stabilizer)
- carrageenan (another thickener/stabilizer)
- sodium phosphate (thickener/emulsifier)
- soybean oil (a "processing aid")
- lactic acid (adds "sour cream" taste)
- water
- citric acid (more sour taste)
- acetic acid (essentially, vinegar)
- "natural and artificial flavors" (this covers a lot of ground!)
- beta carotene (for color)
- potassium sorbate (preservative)
- egg yolks
- vinegar
- salt
- sea clams
- sea clam juice
- sodium tripolyphosphate (preservative, also used in detergents)
- calcium disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (My God, just read what Wikipedia says about this stuff: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethylenediaminetetraacetic_acid)
- sugar
- maltodextrin (basically sugar, but with a higher glycemic index)
- xanthan gum (thickener)
- hydrolyzed corn protein (simulates a bouillon, or broth taste)
- hydrolyzed soy protein
- hydrolyzed wheat protein
- corn syrup solids (a cheater term for "sugar", basically)
- "spices"
- molasses (really? for color and flavor, I assume; contains a lot of sugar)
- cod liver oil (no idea what it's doing in here; not usually considered great-tasting!)
- modified corn starch (thickener/stabilizer)
- cellulose gum (thickener/stabilizer)
- caramel color
- garlic powder
- yeast extract (adds "umami" flavor)
- tamarind extract (adds sourness and flavor)
- dehydrated onion
- sodium benzoate (preservative)
There! Did I miss anything? At least FORTY-ONE ingredients, and probably quite a few more (Who knows how many different mono- and diglycerides there are? Or "natural and artificial flavors"? Or "spices"?). When all is said and done, we're probably looking at at least 50 different ingredients. In Clam Dip!
And they still couldn't make it taste good!
Michael Pollan advises no more than five ingredients total. Here we have fifty! Of which, I count eight different thickeners and stabilizers, and at least three different chemical preservatives.
Yum!
0 Comments:
Post a Comment
<< Home